Porsche 2005 911 Turbo “S” ERL
Aquamist HFS-6 H20/Meth. Injection Installation
This is a photo of the actual car that this document is based on
Disclaimer
Liabilities: The author of this document assumes no responsibility for the modifications you do on your car. Although to our knowledge these instructions are accurate, this includes any errors that these instructions may contain, any differences between your car and the one(s) showcased, as well as any errors in following the instructions. If you don't feel comfortable working with automotive electrical wiring or fuel delivery systems we suggest you let someone with some experience do these modifications. The installer should posses a good understanding of the electrical and fuel delivery systems of the vehicle being worked on. Please double check all your connections and ALWAYS work with the car battery DISCONNECTED. Always keep your safety and that of others as the highest priority.
By installing this modification and or following these guidelines you agree that the author of this document is in no way responsible for damage to persons, a vehicle or vehicles as a result of installing this system.
Warranties: The modifications described in this document could potentially void any manufacturer's warranty you may have left on the car. You assume all responsibility if your car is still covered by warranty.
Legalities:
Laws in your country/state/region/whatever may not allow you to modify systems
such as these on your car, the penalty being at least a fine. Please check with
your local authorities to be on the safe side.
We assume NO RESPONSIBILITIES [emphasis added] what so ever for any accidents caused by the driver of a car with this modification. We always endorse good and safe driving practices at all times.
Copyright
This document and all it's contents are the sole property of IMP Concepts. Please feel free to copy this document and refer to it's contents for your own NON COMMERCIAL purposes. Using these instructions, plans and ideas for compensated commercial applications is strictly prohibited without the express written permission of IMP Concepts.
OK that all said let us get on
with this great mod and have some fun!
Introduction
This document is intended to highlight the complete installation of ERL's Aquamist HFS-6 Water & Methanol Installation on the Porsche 911 Turbo. This particular install was done on a Porsche 2005 911 Turbo “S” Cabriolet. The main object of installing Water & Methanol injection for us was to provide additional in cylinder cooling for cars running above average stock boost levels (>0.8 Bar or 11psi). The system can also be used to generate a little more horse power, but one must be careful to ensure your ECU (DME) is re-programmed accordingly. This text does not discuss ECU (DME) programming; a programming professional should be consulted as needed to optimize the car for high Water to Methanol ratios greater than 70% Water and 30% Methanol. We do not advise anyone to run more than a 50:50 ratios in their cars.
This document is intended to be a helpful installation guide. If you follow the photos in order you should be able to complete the installation safely and have some fun while you are doing it. The separate sections of this installation are intended for reference, they were not necessarily carried out in the order they appear.
You will notice things like the underside plastic covers and wheel well covers have been removed in the photos. We will not go in detail how to remove them, the information can be found in the Porsche 996TT repair manual.
Objectives
Before we embarked on this project we set the following
objectives:
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The installation should be as “Stealthy” as safely possible. This means that the car should look stock in every way when looking at any part of the car including the engine bay and the trunk.
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Installation locations would be selected so that the system components would be functioning well below their rated temperature specifications.
Parts Required
- 1 x ERL Aquamist HFS-6 Water/Methanol Injection System Kit - Mandatory
- 1 x .9mm Jet for 4mm Pipe, ERL Part Number: 806-324 - Optional - Only one is provided with the kit, we chose this size based on our requirements
- 1 x "T" Piece for 4mm Hose, ERL Part Number: 806-360 - Optional - We preferred this part versus the one "Y" piece provided with the kit
- 2 x Howerton Engineering Right Angle Jet Adapters for 4mm Hose - Optional - We preferred these to having a straight feed to the jets
- URL to the supplier: "http://www.howertonengineering.com/Jet_Special.html"
- 2 x 15 psi Check Valves for 4mm Hose, ERL Part Number: 806-249 - Optional - Prevents residual fluid from dripping into the intakes
- 2 Meters of Black 4mm Nylon Hose, ERL Part Number: 806-261 + Colour BLACK - Optional - Makes for a more stealthier installation
- 2 x Custom made Boost Tube Couplers for 2" ID Boost Hose - Mandatory - We feel these are mandatory in order to do the job correctly per ERL Specifications
- URL to the supplier: "http://www.howertonengineering.com/custom_work.html"
- 1 x Custom Pump Mounting Bracket - Mandatory - We made ours ourselves from stock 1/16" Alumium
- 1 x Pot of Touch up Paint for your Car! - Mandatory - You will need this to touch up the minor scrapes in the engine bay etc. We did
- 1 x 180psi Pressure Gauge and appropriate fittings - Optional - Can be used once then removed after pump pressure is set to one's satisfaction
- 1 x Right Angle 6mm Hose Fitting ERL Part Number: 806-376 - Optional - Cleans up the FCM Install Area a little
- 1 x Right Angle 4mm Hose Fitting ERL Part Number: 806-369 - Optional - Cleans up the FCM Install Area a little
- 1 x "T" Piece for 6mm Hose ERL Part Number: 806-380 - Optional - Used to Tee in the Pressure Gauge to the 6mm Feed Hose
- 4 x 2.5" Stainless Steel Hose Clamps - Optional if you use the custom 2" Boost Tube Couplers
The HFS-6 Kit
Selecting the Pump
Location
Bearing in mind that “Stealth” was objective number one, we wanted to select a location that we could access reasonably easily. Conventional installations select the easy way out and put it in the front cargo area. Well, we are far from conventional so this location simply would not do. You can see it, hear it, and it takes up valuable luggage space.
We ended up selecting the Left Front Wheel Well for the pump location, behind the radiator. Before doing this we did significant temperature testing, and found it to be well with the pump’s operating range. Richard Lamb at ERL was consulted and gave us all the recommended temperature ranges. The pump cut off is 82*C (180*F) so we needed to keep it below 50*C (120*F). We tested the selected area many times and never got reading over 45*C (113*F). Admittedly it was not the peak of summer the ambient temperature was 77*F at the time of testing.
Photos Prior to
Installation of the Pump, Left Front Wheel Guards Removed:
Being as there is no real place to secure the pump in this location we fabricated a bracket that can be bolted to the frame using existing bolts and holes. We did not want to drill into the car’s metalwork. The pump will be bolted to this bracket.
The materials were very reasonable. We purchased a plate of Aluminum that was about 2' x 2' it cost $4.50. It took us about 1.5 hours to make using a hacksaw and a robust pair of metal snips. We then sanded off all the rough edges and drilled the holes. We then offered it up to the car , temporarily bolted it in place and held the pump in the desired position before marking the pump retaining bolt holes. We then removed the bracket drilled the pump bolt holes and painted the bracket lightly with black enamel.
Note: Before you actually make the bracket it would be a good idea to lay the paper template in place and line up the holes on the template with your car to ensure our dimensions are applicable to your
particular Turbo Model. These given dimensions lined up perfectly on our 2005 Turbo "S" car. The Pump Mounting holes should also be compared with your pump holes before drilling them.
Also, make sure your printer is set to 100% Scaling, as the bracket is to scale.
How we made the bracket (Great DIY very satisfying):
- Take your time. It is very rewarding.
- Purchase a piece of stock Aluminum 1/16" thick an 8.5" x 11" will do great.
- Print out our Template and cut it out using a pair of sharp scissors
- Using craft glue, (Elmers Craft Bond from Michaels or some other crafty place) glue it to the aluminum plate all round the edges especially
- Using a hacksaw with a new blade and a vice, cut around the template as best you can giving yourself about 1/2 or 1/4" around the template.
- Using a pair of robust tin snips finish it off.
- Clean up the edges using a medium file, then semi fine sandpaper so the burrs do not stab you.
- Drill the holes, use a center punch on the template before you remove it.
- Remove the template and clean the part with soap and water.
- Sandpaper the whole thing and spray it black..
Because it is aluminum and the chassis car is steel, just for safety sake we made some very thin styrene plastic washers to insulate the bracket from the chassis, this would hopefully deter any corrosion from building up due to the close proximity of two dissimilar metals. (Electrolysis)
Bracket Plans (Click on Plan for a Downloadable Plan to Scale in PDF Format)
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Actual Finished Pump Bracket
Pump Installed On Bracket
Mounting the Pump and Bracket into the Final Location
There are 3 available bolts to use, so no drilling required! There are 2 on the bottom of the car holding the frame of the left front radiator support. Undo these and remove them for now, let the metal supports simply hang there they will not move far. The third bolt is sticking out inside the wheel well where the radiator is mounted. DO NOT undo this. Simply get another nut that fits and a thin lock washer, not sure of the actual size but use one of the bolts you removed from the bottom as a template, it is the same as those (5.5mm rings a bell). There is enough thread available to mount the bottom part of the bracket to the secure it. It does not rest on this side, so far it seams sturdy enough for the job. This is why we made only 3 supporting holes on the bracket, as there were only 3 available places to retain the bracket without drilling the chassis of the car.
As the pump is somewhat exposed to the elements, it may be a good idea to put some silicone sealant on the power wires coming out of the pump itself. However, as there is a large green ballast resistor with somewhat exposed wiring in the same area, we thought this would be a relatively non issue. We will however re-visit the site after some use to ensure the pump is not exposed to too much debris, if it turns out that it is, we will most likely spray it with a protective coating of some kind.
Third Bracket Mounting Bolt Inside the Left Front Radiator Compartment
Two Bracket Mounting Bolt Beneath the Front Radiator Compartment
Pump Installed in Car
Pump Wiring Protected with Plastic Wrap
Selecting a Location for the Reservoir and Installing Components
Once again the conventional location for the external reservoir is in the trunk, again taking up valuable cargo space and in full view. We decided to use the existing Windshield Washer Reservoir as it is fairly large and adequate for our requirements. Both the Water Level Switch and Water Supply Outlet were installed in the stock windshield washer fluid reservoir.
The part number of our reservoir was 996 528 701 00, this holds approximately 1.5 Gallons or 5.7 Liters. This is more than ample for our requirements. We will not go through the removal of the reservoir as this is detailed in the Porsche Maintenance Manuals.
Windshield Washer
Reservoir Location Prior to Installation of Level and Supply Components
Water Level Switch
Location (Reservoir Removed from Car)
Water Supply to
Pump Outlet at Bottom of Reservoir
Water Supply to
Pump Outlet and Level Switch Routing
Summary
The Aquamist Water Level Switch was installed in the hole that you can see in the photos above. There is plenty of room. The signal wire is attached to the existing windshield washer pump and stock level switch wiring loom with tie wraps and routed into the trunk area. Be careful to locate the wire so it cannot get chaffed or damage.
Once the reservoir is installed the installation of these components are almost completely unnoticeable as an aftermarket modification. When covered by the wheel trim they will not be seen. Objective achieved, for this part at least.
Installing the Pump Relay and Wiring
The pump relay was installed in the front trunk of the car. There is a convenient mounting point on the rear right just to the left of the Windshield Washer filler cap. We used one of the screws that holds the rain sensor control module in place. This is very easy just take a look at the photos below.
Pump Relay Location
Pump Relay Connector
ERL made it really easy for the DIY electrician, they provide plugs and sockets wherever possible to make the wire hookups a cinch. We decided to use a tie wrap to secure the wires from the connector at a right ngle to prevent them fouling with other items in the trunk bay. you can see how we did this in the photo below.
Pump Wiring to Relay
We had to increase the length of the power wires to the pump due to the fact we wanted the relay nicely tucked away in the trunk and the pump itself located in the front left wheel well. We extend the wires by about 4 feet, being sure to use 14 gauge stranded automobile wire. It is important to use the same thickness as the original pump wires due to the current drawn by the pump. Lengthening these wires will do no harm to the pump or it's operation.
We then passed the wires through the fender into the trunk and connected them to the relay using the same channel as we used for the water level switch. The wires were then routed neatly through the wheel well to the pump location.
Splice in Pump Wires (x 2, One at the Pump and One at the Relay Connector)
Relay with Connector Installed
Pump Wiring through Wheel Well
Pump Power and Ground Wiring
We decided to go straight to the battery for Power and to a convenient bolt for Ground. There is a hole in the +ve battery connector that we inserted a bolt into and attached power. There is a bolt holding an AC canister to the trunk structure, we use that for the ground. You can see where we ran the power wires and ground in the following photos.
Pump Ground Connection
Pump Power to Battery
Pump Wiring through the Firewall
The next step is to get the pump control wire through the firewall into the passenger bay of the car. We took ours through a blind hole that was behind the battery. This involves sliding the battery to the left a little to expose the plug that was installed by Porsche OEM. Just make a small slit in the rubber cover just large enough to squeeze the wire through. The following photo shows a clear view with the battery moved out of the way a little.
The Plumbing
This is quite a challenging part, we need to get the 6mm feed pipe into the engine bay to the Flow Control Module (FCM). Not so easy as we need to avoid the HOT bits. We had to remove the under carriage protection on the car to do this. (Those big plastic bits under the car). We ended up routing the pipe with the Green OEM Pipe till we got to the rear driver's wheel.
Note: It will take all the 6mm pipe included in the kit to make this run from the Pump Feed to the FCM in the Engine Bay. You will need a few feet more (5' to be safe) for the feed from the Windshield Washer Reservoir to the Pump Inlet.
Here is a pictorial view of the route we used:
Water Supply to Pump from Reservoir
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Pump Supply Pipe to FCM in the Wheel Well (Not Tie Wrapped Yet)
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Pump Supply Pipe to FCM Under the Car
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Pump Supply Pipe to FCM Through Left Rear Wheel Well
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Pump Supply Pipe to FCM Through Left Rear Inter Cooler Bay
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Pump Supply Pipe to FCM Through Left Rear Inter Cooler Bay into Engine Bay
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Flow Control Module (FCM) Location
We chose to install the FCM on the right rear of the engine bay beside the right bank of Oxygen sensor plugs. This required the drilling of 2 small mounting holes, one of which was used to attach the ground wire to.
The FCM has an operating threshold of 150*C, this location being directly by the Air Intake, never exceeded 40*C during all our testing. We also checked with ERL and it is OK to mount the FCM in a horizontal position. It is quite noisy during operation, so we used some 1/16" foam double sided tape as a small buffer/damper between the FCM and the chassis. You can see how we left a nice loop of 6mm Water/Meth feed pipe to the FCM, this was intentional just in case we chose to re-locate it at a later date. You can also see why we added the "T" Piece for 4mm Nylon Pipe. Please refer to the second photo below for exact placement.
Important Note: After some discussions, regarding our desired Control Box proposed setup, we installed a .9mm Restrictor in the FCM Feed Line per ERL's recommendation . This was done to maintain even pressure throughout the FCM Duty Cycle Range. As we are using 2 x .9mm jets (~1000 cc per minute Please refer to the HFS-6 documentation for more information.
FCM Location in Engine Bay Showing Pressure Gauge (Please Refer to the Pressure Gauge Section for Installation Details)
FCM Close up in Engine Bay
Installing a Pressure Gauge
We installed a Pressure gauge so we could monitor the water pressure feed to the FCM. Ideally you really need to use a fluid filled gauge, we did not have one available so we used a cheap $5 gauge we picked up from Harbor Freight. It is adequate and if it breaks (Due to the aggressive pulsation of pump), it will be easy to replace. We made a custom bracket for our gauge from 1/16" Aluminum, and attached it to the Right side Engine Mount retaining bolt. We used a 6mm Hose "T" (ERL Part Number 806-380) to attach it to the main feed hose, a 6mm host compression fitting that came standard with the kit ( ERL Part Number 806-365), and a standard 90 Degree brass 1/8" Pipe fitting (From Home Depot) for the gauge side.
Note: If you are using a cheap NON Fluid Damped Gauge like we did, you will notice it vibrates when the pump is on during testing. In order to fix this, simply put a restrictor into the hose feeding the gauge. Any Stainless Steel set screw will do. Just make sure it is really Stainless (or Brass), and that it is an INTERFERENCE fit in the hose bore. You want to push it in as far as you can, so it sits in the middle of the hose length. We used an 8" hose and a 1/2" long set screw, so we pushed the set screw 4" in. ONLY insert the restrictor into the hose that feeds the pressure gauge NOT the FCM.
Gauge Fitting
Gauge "T" into FCM Fluid Feed Pipe
Gauge Mount
Final FCM Mounting Showing updated Quick Fit Connections
Jet Placement & Installation
We chose to install the jets in the Main Boost Hoses from the Inter Coolers
to the "Y" Pipe. how do we do this if the Tubes are reinforced Rubber, or
Silicone? Well, this of course required
custom made Boost Tube Couplers and jet adapters. These adapters have a M8x.75 metric tapped hole so the
jets can be mounted directly without the pipe threaded adapters, in addition
they have ridges in the flanges so the hoses will connect snuggly with no
possibility of leakage.
The Jets, according to most experts opinion, are supposed to be as close to the outlet from
the intercoolers as possible. We determined that the traditional placement in
the OEM "Y" Pipe was not optimum for our application. The furthest distance we would get
from the throttle body keeping the 2 jets at the same distance was 28", we
felt this would be more than adequate to ensure maximum fluid vaporization.
We marked the Hoses with Masking tape at the point where we needed to cut them using our compound miter saw and a fine tooth saw blade. Remember you need to cut out exactly 0.5" to compensate for the Outer Flange Width in order not to increase the length of the Boost Hoses. Make sure you clean all the debris out of the Boost Hoses there will be a lot. In addition we cleaned all the oil residue from inside the hoses while we were there and lubricated them with a spray Silicone rubber protector. You will then need 4 2.5" Hose Clamps.
The coupler Dimensions are as follows:
- Jet Mount Outer Flange Diameter (OD) - 2.3"
- Jet Mount Outer Flange Width - .5"
- Jet Mount Outer Flange Depth - .25"
- Wall Thickness Including Ridges - .08"
- Hose Flange Diameter Including Ridges (OD) - 2.06"
- Adapter Internal Diameter (ID) - 1.85"
- Adapter Total Length - 2.08"
Initial Jet Position Measurements
Actual Couplers, Anodized Black to Match the OEM Boost Hoses
Custom Couplers with Jets Installed
Close Up of Jet Installed in Coupler
Boost Tube Couplers Installed in OEM Boost Hoses
Final Boost Hose Installation
We installed the hosts in 2 steps each it was very easy, here is what we did. We used a little silicone lubricant on each coupler to rubber interface so we could manipulate the joint into place.
- Separate longest part of each tube (The part that interfaces to the "Y" Pipe
- Install each jet and tighten, no need for Lock Tite, the "O" ring will hold them in place
- Install all four hose clamps loosely on the pipes (2 per side)
- Install the shortest parts left and right into the inter coolers
- Position the jets on each side where you want them (Refer to our photos below for examples)
- Tighten the inner hose clamps, be careful not to over tighten them, just enough to grip firmly, the ridges will hold the tubes. You can tell if they are tight enough as the Couplers will be firm in place
- Now, on each side make sure the clamp is on and in the correct orientation, then slide the longest part of the boost tube onto the coupler and secure the other end into the "Y" pipe
- Tighten the other 2 hose clamps and you are done!
The next thing to do in install the optional Check Valves and cut the feed pipes to size and install into the quick fit connectors as shown in the photos.
Left Hand Jet Installed in Coupler with Check Valve and plumbed into Place
Right Hand Jet Installed in Coupler with Check Valve and plumbed into Place
FCM Feed to Jets Through 4mm Splitter
Engine View, Jets & Boost Tubes Installed (Spot the Jets in This Stealth Installation!)
Pump & Gauge Control Wire Routing through the Passenger Cabin to the Rear Right Fender Bay
This part of the installation is very tricky and time consuming, you have to take special care when doing this not to chaff any wires. you also have to remove some interior trim and get creative. We decided to locate the HFS-6 Controller Box behind the Right Rear Speaker in the rear Wing. there is plenty of room and padding, and to adjust anything all you will need to do is remove the 2 screws that hold the speaker in place and disconnect it. Then the controller can be accessed and tinkered with if necessary. It is very difficult to take good photos of this process so we are gong to highlight the steps and show as much as possible in the photos.
Note:
You will have to extend the Gauge Control Wire as it is too short, be careful to leave a little at either end of run until it is extended. We used an RJ45 Extension Wire. Please refer to the Gauge Installation Section for details on this installation.
This is what we did:
Remove the trim under the passenger foot well, it is a small piece of foam type trim that is held in place with 3 plastic screws
Run the Pump Control Wire behind the radio along the front firewall behind the carpet until you get around to as far right by the passenger door as you can go
Pull back about 10" of the rubber door seal from the curve in the door at the bottom of the door
Pull Back the trim slightly and you will see an OEM wiring loom, we followed that.
Remove the passenger door kick plate on the door sill
Remove the right rear speaker
Remove the right rear trim when the speaker is housed
Pull back the carpet as far as you can it is padded with thick foam
Pull back a little of the carpet on the door sill to reveal some access holes
Here is the fun part (Not):
Get a wire coat hanger and put a small look on one end
Get some nylon string or similar about 15 feet long and fold it in half and knot one end, this will become 2 separate pieces of draw string later
Now fish the coat hanger through an access hold under where the passenger kick plate was till you get it near the OEM loom in the front (See photo), this is tricky and you will need to bend the tip a little and grasp it with your other hand and pull it up behind the front foot well trim
Attach the nylon string to the coat hanger tip and pull it through the first part of the run, you should actually have 2 pieces of string joined together at the moment
Repeat these steps until you have pulled the string out of the area by the rear trim where the speaker wires are
Relax, that was the tough part
Pulling the Pump & Gauge Control Wires into Place:
Undo the knot you made to separate the draw string, attach one securely to the glove compartment damper
Tie the other piece of string to the end of the Pump Control Wire that you have dangling at the front. Use black electrical tape and be careful to tape it securely to the connector and try to cover any edges of the RJ45 plug with the electrical tape. We put a knot in the string to help keep it in place
Pull the other end of the string and feed the Blue RJ45 Pump Control Connector carefully until it come out in the desired location at the rear. You may need to go back and forth a few times if it gets stuck. It did not get stuck for us as we went very slowly
Using the other draw string repeat the process with the Flat Gauge Control Wire
FCM & Power Plug Wire Routing:
Carefully route the wires from the FCM over to the far right up into the bulkhead
There is a rubber grommet that passes the OEM Wiring loom into the DME 7.8 compartment behind the rear seat
There is a spare rubber pass through that is blocked off, you will need to make a hole in it to pass the Red RJ45 wire and the Boost Controller Failsafe Wire through. We simply put a slice in it and stretched it carefully to pass the wires through. We used a piece of 4mm host as a draw wire
There is an existing plastic channel going into the Rear passenger compartment, we used this to pass both the wires from the FCM to the Power plug through. We tie wrapped the wires to existing wires and cables
Main DME Signal Wire Routing:
Carefully route the wire with the Yellow RJ45 Connector using the same channel as used for the FCM, but in the reverse direction
Once in the DME area behind the seat tie wrap all the wires as neatly as possible
Pump & Gauge Routing Photos
Passenger Wheel Well Trim Removed (You can just see the Pump Control Wire behind the carpet on the right)
One of the Draw Strings Hanging Out of the Trim
Wiring Loom Behind Front Foot Well Trim and Along the Door Sill (You can see one draw string and the Pump Control Wire in place)
Pump Control Wire and Draw String in Rear Wing Trim
FCM Wire Location on it's Way to the Passenger Compartment
We ran the wire through an existing rubber wiring grommet (We cut a small hole in it for the wires to pass through) into the area behind the seat where the DME 7.8 is located (See photos below). From here will will go into the HFS-6 Control Box location in the rear Passenger compartment behind the speaker.
HFS-6 control Box Wire Routing and Location
Right Rear Passenger Compartment to DME 7.8 Location
Right Rear Tail Light Dimmer Control Wire
HFS-6 Control box Final Location (for Setup and Adjustment (It will be tucked away behind the Right Rear speaker when complete).
HFS-6 Controller Box Wiring to the Car's Control Systems
There are a few wires that need to be connected in order for the installation to be complete. It is very important that you completely disconnect the battery at this point. We do not want ant power anywhere while we are splicing the wires from the HFS-6 to the car's wiring system. Also you need to double and triple check that you have the correct wires.
You will need to locate and expose your DME 7.8 engine Management Unit Wiring Loom. we have highlighted the area for the Cabriolet, They are actually both behind the rear seat, just how you get at them is vastly different. Please refer to your maintenance manual for how to expose the DME 7.8. It is easy in each case. The DME is the grey box on the right with the bar code on it. On our car it has Bosch Cartronic written on it, along with a Porsche Part Number of 996 618 606 01.
In addition the wire that is designed to go to the headlight switch was routed into the Passenger Side Tail Light Assembly (As seen in the Routing section of this document)
2005 turbo "S" Cabriolet DME 7.8 Engine Management Unit Location
Aquamist HFS-6 wiring
The HFS-6 is pre-configured from factory, there
are only a few wires to hook up due to their extensive use of on board
connectors. There are 2 sets of wires to attach. We attached all of the wires
directly into the DME 7.8 Engine Management wiring loom. All you need to do
attach the the following connections in order to get it to work.
This is the way we did it
Remove all plugs from the DME
7.8
Select the plug you want to work on
Unwrap the OEM Black loom tape
Locate the wire(s)
Perform the splice
Move to the next wire
